The first ten minutes of this recipe produce nothing you will eat. Bruised lemongrass, sliced galangal and torn lime leaves simmer in coconut milk and broth, and everything the finished soup tastes of comes from that infusion.
Only then does anything edible go in. Sliced chicken thigh and mushrooms take eight to ten minutes, the seasoning goes in after that, and the lime juice waits until the pot is off the heat entirely.
Why This Recipe Works
- Bruising the lemongrass opens the stalk so it releases its oils into the broth rather than merely sitting in it.
- Two cans of coconut milk against three cups of broth is what keeps the soup pale rather than thin.
- Slicing the thighs thinly means they reach 165 degrees Fahrenheit in eight to ten minutes without toughening.
- Lime juice added off the heat keeps its sharpness, which cooking would flatten.
Ingredient Notes
- Lemongrass, galangal and makrut lime leaves
- Two stalks bruised, six slices, four leaves torn. All three flavour the broth and none of them is eaten.
- Chicken thighs
- A pound, thinly sliced. Thighs rather than breast, and thin enough to cook in eight to ten minutes.
- Lime juice
- Two to three tablespoons, added off the heat to taste rather than measured in blind.
How to Make It
Infuse the broth
Combine coconut milk, broth, lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves; simmer gently for 10 minutes.
Chicken and mushrooms to 165F
Add chicken and mushrooms and simmer 8 to 10 minutes, until chicken reaches 165 degrees Fahrenheit.
Season
Stir in fish sauce and sugar.
Lime, off the heat
Remove from heat and add lime juice to taste.
Serve
Serve with sliced chile and cilantro; remove the tough lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves as you eat.
The Order, and Why Nothing Moves
Fifty minutes, and each thing enters at the point where heat helps it and leaves before heat costs it anything.
0 to 10 minutes
2 cans coconut milk, 3 cups broth, 2 bruised lemongrass stalks, 6 slices galangal, 4 torn lime leaves
Nothing edible yet. This is the infusion, and skipping it leaves a coconut soup with no character.
8 to 10 minutes
1 lb thinly sliced chicken thighs and 8 oz sliced mushrooms
Thin slices so they reach 165F quickly rather than being held at a simmer.
After the chicken is up to temperature
2 tbsp fish sauce and 1 tbsp palm or brown sugar
Seasoning goes in once the volume is settled, so the balance is judged against the finished pot.
Off the heat entirely
2 to 3 tbsp fresh lime juice, to taste
A range rather than a measurement, because limes vary and this is the note the whole soup balances on.
In the bowl
1 to 2 sliced Thai chiles and 1/2 cup cilantro leaves
The aromatics from step one are pushed aside here - they were never meant to be eaten.
Success Tips
- Bruise the lemongrass with the flat of a knife before cutting it — an unbruised stalk gives up very little.
- Keep the infusion at a gentle simmer. Coconut milk boiled hard can separate.
- Taste as you add the lime. The recipe gives a range because limes vary.
Serving Ideas
Six servings in white bowls, pale and fragrant with sliced chicken and mushrooms, finished with sliced Thai chile and cilantro leaves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I eat the lemongrass and galangal?
No. They flavour the broth and are pushed aside as you eat.
What if I cannot find galangal?
The recipe allows six thin slices of galangal or ginger.
Why is the lime added off the heat?
Its sharpness is what balances the coconut, and simmering would flatten it.
